Pemba is a magical island. Unlike Unguja (Zanzibar), Pemba is hilly. Gentle, undulating hills and deep verdant valleys are all covered with a dense cover of clove, coconut and mango plantation. A more fertile land it is difficult to imagine.

But it is not just the landscape that gives Pemba its magical reputation. For centuries Pemba has held a reputation as a centre for the juju traditions of medicine and magic. Earlier this century, British writer Evelyn Waugh wrote of the island ...

There certainly is a strange atmosphere on Pemba. How can so beautiful a place be so devoid of visitors ? On an island with a population of 300,000 there can rarely be more than a couple of dozen foreigners. It is as if the people of Pemba have a secret that they refuse to let go. That is not to say that the people here are not friendly. Travelling in Pemba is like travelling in unknown territory. In the countryside, villagers are eager to talk to passers-by and small children cry at the sight of a muzungu. In town, market stallholders call you over and sit you down to try their different fruits, laughing hysterically at your reaction. Old . men in traditional dress offer themselves up for photographs and crowds gather to stir up the hilarity. There is an incredibly relaxed and easy-going atmosphere throughout the island.

The down side about travelling in Pemba is the lack of infrastructure and facilities. The visitor simply has to be prepared to 'rough it', unless staying at one of only a few decent accommodations. The only guesthouses on Pemba are at Mkoani, Chake Chake and Wete. All are very small, modest and probably fully-booked. Making reservations in advance is essential. Away from these towns, the traveller will have difficulty finding any accommodation.

Food must be bought at the local markets and shops. Generally the only place to eat out is at the local stalls or at one of the few guesthouses. Transport is limited to a few taxis, private cars and the public bus service. Beyond this, walking is the only option. At present Pemba is an Eden, practically barely by tourism and commerce. However, even the strongest waganga spells will not be able to maintain this status quo. Nonetheless Pemba has a beauty so intense that it will not be so easily tainted.

THE CAPITAL
The largest town on Pemba, its capital and its administrative centre is Chake Chake, located about half way down the Western coast of the island at the head of a narrow creek.

The old town is set on a ridge, from where it is possible to look down through the early morning mists over the rusty tin roofs to the silted creek below, where only the occasional dhow now ventures when the tides will allow.

At the centre of town their is well-defined old quarter, with a traditional market place, fortress and rows of bazaar shops. There is also an SMZ hotel, identical to that in Mkoani. Although Chake Chake has probably been inhabited for as long as Stone Town, it has never really been a seat of political power and consequently has relatively few historic buildings. The prevailing atmosphere remains that of a relaxed and friendly provincial outpost rather than a bustling centre for commerce.

The old centre is bypassed by a traffic-free dual carriageway, similar to that at Mkoani and flanked by some interesting commercial buildings dating from the middle of the 20th century. On the outskirts of town is a new hospital, built by the European Community overseas aid programme and a few kilometres past the old centre a huge new sports stadium, which is home for the local football team. Opposite the stadium are a couple of small guesthouses which, being presently the only accommodation in town, should be booked in advance.

ACCESS
The island's only airport lies about 7km from town to the South East, which takes only light local traffic from Unguja and the mainland.

ACTIVITIES
· Snorkeling
· Scuba diving
· Deep sea fishing
· Saltwater fly fishing
· Inland tours
· Visit the old ruins
· Relaxing on the beach
· Traditional dhow trips
· Dolphin tours